Claudio Sieber

Yangon, Shwedagon Pagoda, Markets

One of the most striking ethnic tribes in Myanmar are the Padaung (also called Kayan Lahwi), a sub-group of the Karen – only indigenous to the Kayah State of Myanmar. This is for sure no secret, than the first Padaung had been taken to the UK for „exhibitions“ in the early 19th century. The outstanding book „From the Land of green ghosts“ written by Pascal Khoo Thwe enforced me to visit these extraordinary people. In my opinion it is a must read before entering Myanmar and its state Kayah. Aung San Suu Kyi’s National League for Democracy (NLD) took over power in beginning of 2016, just after a longer transition from military rule to a civilian democracy. It was time to embark on a cultural exploration through the country. I resisted the temptation to visit the Padaung in bordering Thailand, where a lot of them escaped to when the burmese army tried to conquer their lands. While in Thailand most Padaung ended up weaving in human zoos, I was hoping to encounter the remarkable ethnicity in their authentic environment – hence, this journey wasn’t possible when Kayah was part of the restricted areas until it opened up late 2015. Obviously, the tradition of the Padaung ladies is a disappearing one. Modernisation and discomfort are main factors. As long as the elders can’t convince the youth to maintain this tradition, it will be soon lost forever.

In recently opening Myamar tourists and backpackers still remain on the beaten track and allow themselves some weeks to tick the highly rated spots like Yangon, Inle Lake, Bagan and Mandaly. Places which have been advertised by the military government decades ago. Even though, there is so much more to explore. Tazaungdaing Festival is also known as Festival of Lights, it takes place during new moon on the 8th month of the Buddhist calendar, marking the end of the rainy season. It also marks the end of the Kathina (Kahtein in Burmese) period, when the monks are given new robes and alms. People send up fire balloons and multicolored lanterns to commemorate the day, when Buddha returned from the visit of his mother’s reincarnated spirit. The lights in the sky should illuminate the path back to earth. The balloons are released as an offering to the Sulamani Cetiya in Tavitisma, a heaven in Buddhist cosmology and home of the devas, or as a way to drive away evil spirits. The origins of the balloons launching tradition dates back to 1894, when the British held the first hot air balloon competitions in Taunggyi, soon after the annexing Upper Burma. Tazaungdaing is Shan State’s biggest event. The locals (aprrox 5-10’000) are awaiting the festival with excitement. One can feel this magical moment! There are weaving contests, wooden Carousels (manually started by young staff hanging on the cabins), feasts and games to enjoy. The teams are playing traditional instruments and drums while brining their hot air balloon to the launching point. The crowd waits in astonishment for the firework to explode. Usually there is 50 kilo pack of firework ajusted to the hot air balloons. After around 50 meters of altitude the firework starts launching, pointing in all directions – even downwards.